The Course Blog of Anthropology 210 @ Wheaton College, Fall 2014

The Course Blog of Anthropology 210 @ Wheaton College, Fall 2014

Sunday, September 28, 2014

Eggs

omelet
This is a picture of an omelet I had this semester with chili sauce, no cheese. I had a difficult time with knife and forks upon arrival last summer in the US, especially with omelet, one of the few hot/cooked food made of the universal eggs right in front of “customers”, the Chinese version of which (“蛋饼”/“egg pancake”) we can eat with hands or with chopsticks (see below).
The stir-fry and grill counters are the only spots at school (except fastfood-serving Loft) where the cooking procedures can be seen by all, yet in my town, kitchens of nearly all small restaurants featuring what we gladly call “homemade specialties” are open through a window or door for customers to take a peek, not hard to achieve as according to Chinese culinary tradition one should be very meticulous about limiting cooking time in order to both preserve fresh original taste and remove the rawness of the ingredients. This owner-customer bond is based on mutual trust in non-deliberate contamination by both sides, even in the common and popular “fly restaurants” (hygiene condition of which similar to that of the tables near the disposal area in Chase), customers are allowed entry into the kitchens to use the tanks and toilets, whereas in “Western”/modernized settings “outsider” entry into the kitchen is forbidden.
egg pancakes

As for the cooked food at school that I’m most fond of--eggs, I prefer the most familiar boiled eggs (or “complete eggs” in Sichuan dialect). Steaming is considered the second top choice for making eggs, with losses of nutritional values when stirring and exposure to high temperature for more than what it takes to boil eggs, but today steamed eggs are served more as a type of savory dish with soy sauce, dried seafood for a salty taste or sugar with dates or goji berries tasty enough to avoid the raw eggy smell, the recipes and cooking procedures of which vary geographically and are usually passed down verbally. It is hard for people from my town to imagine popularity of packed ready-made yolk and egg white as from our perspective the tradition of putting “extra” efforts into making eggs without the abundance of materials or assistance of modern utensils should be preserved as an unsaid rule and responsibility of instilling our care and precision into any dietary energy source. 
seafood steamed eggs

In bakery, eggs as a fundamental ingredient is not central to rural Chinese tradition (with moon-cakes and other kinds of dim sum as exceptions derived from more developed South-Eastern region), a craving for eggs did not use to be satisfied from various kinds of Western food available nowadays. My dad often warns everyone of high sodium contained in “imported” foods or what I’ve been having for ten months. I also remember “cakes” were served in my childhood as festival luxury--and only for birthdays children in the neighborhood could have one sizeable “birthday cake” and share with one another as substitute for dinner--while in my father’s childhood, everyone treasured the only boiled egg available each year on his or her birthday.

2 comments:

  1. This post was very insightful and made me realize for the first time, the "strangeness" of not being able to see meal preparation occur or enter into the cooking facilities of restaurants and eating locales. As you said, "according to Chinese culinary tradition one should be very meticulous about limiting cooking time in order to both preserve fresh original taste and remove the rawness of the ingredients. This owner-customer bond is based on mutual trust in non-deliberate contamination by both sides, even in the common and popular “fly restaurants” (hygiene condition of which similar to that of the tables near the disposal area in Chase), customers are allowed entry into the kitchens to use the tanks and toilets, whereas in “Western”/modernized settings “outsider” entry into the kitchen is forbidden". Both the idea of minimal cooking time in order not to comply with the western idea of instant gratification, but rather to "preserve fresh original taste" and "remove the rawness of the ingredient" as well as the idea of having a "mutual trust" from cook and consumer illuminate to me, the importance of what I understand as precision and transparency in Chinese cuisine. From this illumination, it is also clear to me, how little trust there is in Western cuisine as well as the lack of transparency within the production and distribution process.
    It is also funny, because thinking back, the only time I have ever been allowed in the kitchen of a restaurant, is usually when I am at a "hole in the wall" eatery, in which to get to the restroom you have to pass through the kitchen- usually in these places, the cooks and workers feel much more like family than "servers" and they are willing to show you what they are cooking so that when you get back to your table, you feel that you can absolutely trust what you are eating regardless of the lack of "prestige" in the restaurant itself. Great post Lauren!

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    1. \ㅅㅠㅅ/ Yeah, and the absence of condiments placed on restaurant tables in rural and minority region (not in cases of (rice)noodle/dumpling/dough-soup sort of "non-maincourse" serving) represents respect and adherence to particular kinds of recipe and execution built in our local memory without external pressure for modifications. In contrast, Cantonese region and other major cities have greater capacity to incorporate and cater for the appetites of migrants and foreigners, as in American Chinese restaurants customers are encouraged to help themselves with the tastes of their dishes.

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